Today i had one of the best, if not the best surfs of my life.
Went down to island at 9am sharp to find big heavy lefts, on high tide, absolutely no wind with a crowd of about 10. I thought not bad hopefully i can get some good ones.
So i paddled out went into the waiting area as i call it, to join the others. a Few minutes later a solid wave, maybe 4ft comes through, big and left. No one went for it so i paddled for it. Took a nice easy drop into a very nice barrel, pulled off an started paddling back out. As im heading back out i see a real bomb come through, maybe a 10ft face? Anyway i guy called Tom went for it, it was a wedge so he had a nice easy pull into the barrel. This thing spat, alot, he made it out and i was just so pumped for him. I started thinking maybe i can get one of those...
Back to the line up about 5 minutes later another set comes through, first wave is taken by someone ive never seen before, I look over it to see another bomb just like the one Tom got seconds ago, i don't know if it was the same size but it definitely had a face bigger then 8ft. I was in the perfect position to, I started paddling when couple a guys started calling me into it, id never caught a wave this big at island - a large left wedge with what looked like the perfect end section. How ever unlike Tom's wave, this wasn't such an easy pull into the barrel. I took a decent drop, which unfortunately slowed me down just a little, i set my line and pulled into the biggest barrel of my life, it even had the perfect shape, what more could you want. I could see the end in sight, time seemed to slow down almost, this perfect barrel, what could go wrong? The end section was to far ahead of me, i felt the spit on my back, and got picked up by the foamie... I didn't make it out. Although i didn't make it out, it was still the best wave ever, guys calling me in, perfect start, the view, the large spit, everything was perfect except the end section.
After that i needed to calm down a bit, i sat in the line up for a while before i got my next wave. As time went by the waves started getting bigger but were all over the place, a perfect wave was hard to find. I still managed to get 4 more solid left barrels in the whole sesh after about 2.5 hrs. The crowds started getting bigger to, was about 25 people when i went it, but still nothing could top my early bomb.
So there you have it, my perfect surf.
Local break: Shark Island
There just about every week of the year, unless if its freezing cold