Bodyboarding Log - Part 4

[Goliath]

Today i had one of the best, if not the best surfs of my life.

Went down to island at 9am sharp to find big heavy lefts, on high tide, absolutely no wind with a crowd of about 10. I thought not bad hopefully i can get some good ones.

So i paddled out went into the waiting area as i call it, to join the others. a Few minutes later a solid wave, maybe 4ft comes through, big and left. No one went for it so i paddled for it. Took a nice easy drop into a very nice barrel, pulled off an started paddling back out. As im heading back out i see a real bomb come through, maybe a 10ft face? Anyway i guy called Tom went for it, it was a wedge so he had a nice easy pull into the barrel. This thing spat, alot, he made it out and i was just so pumped for him. I started thinking maybe i can get one of those...

Back to the line up about 5 minutes later another set comes through, first wave is taken by someone ive never seen before, I look over it to see another bomb just like the one Tom got seconds ago, i don't know if it was the same size but it definitely had a face bigger then 8ft. I was in the perfect position to, I started paddling when couple a guys started calling me into it, id never caught a wave this big at island - a large left wedge with what looked like the perfect end section. How ever unlike Tom's wave, this wasn't such an easy pull into the barrel. I took a decent drop, which unfortunately slowed me down just a little, i set my line and pulled into the biggest barrel of my life, it even had the perfect shape, what more could you want. I could see the end in sight, time seemed to slow down almost, this perfect barrel, what could go wrong? The end section was to far ahead of me, i felt the spit on my back, and got picked up by the foamie... I didn't make it out. Although i didn't make it out, it was still the best wave ever, guys calling me in, perfect start, the view, the large spit, everything was perfect except the end section.

After that i needed to calm down a bit, i sat in the line up for a while before i got my next wave. As time went by the waves started getting bigger but were all over the place, a perfect wave was hard to find. I still managed to get 4 more solid left barrels in the whole sesh after about 2.5 hrs. The crowds started getting bigger to, was about 25 people when i went it, but still nothing could top my early bomb.

So there you have it, my perfect surf.

[caspian]

Sounds good Goliath, although maybe on a perfect session you'd make the wave

Anyway, super fun sesh today, wedges on the south coast, somewhere, forget the name

[caspian]

Clean glassy 2/3 ft wedges, just me out, so good

[Swoodle]

So Vicco was HOT on the weekend. High 30s. I had a bye in Softball so I booted down the island on Saturday morning.

Reports could not have been much more perfect. 2-4ft with a fairly strong offshore wind. Turns out on Saturday EVERYONE else had the same idea about hitting up EP. It was packed. 33 I counted sitting on it. I still managed to get a few okish rides but nothing really worth while.

After a messy Saturday night (many brian cells killed off) I was ready to hit it Sunday arvo. The swell had died off a little but it really was perfect at about 2-3ft and oh so hollow. I was the first out and straight away I thought "Take everything you can while its empty". I didn't realise that a mate Sandy had been paddling out from the next bay over. Had to change my game plan to "Take everything Sandy doesn't take". We had it for about 45min to ourselves and it was awesome. My first wave spat me out into the channel and I knew that this session already hands down beat the previous days efforts.

I got about 6 well before the crowds started to show up, but it got crowded fast after that. With the tide coming up quick, the crowds coming up quicker and the swell slowly dying off, I def had my fair share of waves so called it a day.

Now I'm ready to go through another week of office work

Swoods.

[pete]

Sunday sounds like it was a fun day Swoods. Crazy that you managed to get it to yourself after it was so busy the day before.
But,

Softball

Really??

Haha

[Swoodle]

Sunday sounds like it was a fun day Swoods. Crazy that you managed to get it to yourself after it was so busy the day before.
But,

Softball

Really??

Haha

Softball is truely the game to play for the following reasons;

1. The grounds are licensed, so beers after a match is always assured
2. Zero training
3. As well as no training, the grounds are smaller than baseball which means less running
4. You would be surprised how fast the mens teams pitch. Avg around 120kmph and at a very short distance

People do say softball is a girls sport but even the women that play are boarderline men.

[pete]

Haha, just playing Swoods!

The beers sound good. I actually seriously respect the accuracy pitchers have at that speed in softball too

[caspian]

so, a few months of being in a rather depressed state finally came out all at once in the form of an semi-nervous breakdown/enraged, screaming 10 minute long rant at a longboarder at windmills who made the mistake of dropping in on me twice, then snaking me on a wave that was clearly mine. I don't think I've ever felt so shit after a surf. Bit of a low point in general really.

[Swoodle]

so, a few months of being in a rather depressed state finally came out all at once in the form of an semi-nervous breakdown/enraged, screaming 10 minute long rant at a longboarder at windmills who made the mistake of dropping in on me twice, then snaking me on a wave that was clearly mine. I don't think I've ever felt so shit after a surf. Bit of a low point in general really.

It all comes out eventually mate and everyone has a go at someone at some point for little or no reason.

Don't beat yourself up to much.

[Derwent]

Yo caspian - doubt you'd be the lone ranger firing up in the line out & sorry you've been having a hard time for months - hopefully things are on the improve. It is infuriating when people are selfish out in the water - maybe you need a second sport to use up some energy - I whack the bag at a local martial arts club - don't do any contact stuff anymore - but it does help me chill. Having said that I called a longboarder off a wave on sunday when he went to drop in & he got pretty aggro - so go figure - maybe I should have kept my mouth shut & just pulled off the back. The good thing about lidding is there is always another wave to be had.

[meaksy]

Just came back from a family holiday on the goldy. Didnt have time to go anywhere with a good break so was confined to the shiteness of the goldy beaches near surfers. waves were way straight and pretty bland but was fun to get in the water in winter that was as warm as southoz summer water temperatures. Coupla crap gopro framies

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[savage flame]

Nice Meaksy. Looks like fun, I love surfing straight close-outs in QLD just for the pure fact the waters so nice.
It's getting super cold here in Vic.
I'm heading up to Sydney next week for a few days coz I've got annual leave. Keen as to surf the whole way up the coast. It will be fractionally warmer up there. Ha

[brad]

Cant wait for day light savings to start back up this 9 till 6 job is killing me!

[savage flame]

Cant wait for day light savings to start back up this 9 till 6 job is killing me!

I concur.
I do 9-5:30 but realistically when I have to open and close the shop it evens out to 8:30-6pm. No overtime also sucks.

[cammobreed]

My first sessions back in Aus. Same spot, two mornings in a row. Prior to this I hadn't seen the ocean in months. I saw a few guys surfing the rivermouth in Munich while I was there, but that was as close as I got. It was such a good feeling to get back into the ocean, I spent the first half hour of the first session swimming around not even bothering to take photos. I was just stoked to be home again haha.

First session;


^rider: benny c





Second session;


^rider: me (photo by compte)