Benny "BMax" Mackinnon New Zealand

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Benny "BMax" Mackinnon New Zealand

Postby doclach » Mon Aug 10, 2009 9:03 pm

Finally we get our first Kiwi interviewed on the forum. Ben Mackinnon is no stranger to some hard, technical surfing as you will see.
As a special treat I've asked him to include some old-skool pics from the 90's along with some of the most recent pics you can see from Arica and of course some local breaks in New Zealand.

Sit back, relax and get ready to have a few good laughs at a funny bloke.



Doc: Hey BMax,
Cracker message when you came back from Arica.haha. Before getting onto El Gringo we better cover New Zealand, seeing as you are the first NZ rider we’ve interviewed on the forum.
How would you describe the surf breaks you haunt (no secret ones of course) and can you give a summary of the booger scene in NZ as a general overview?


BM:
Haha.....Yeah Bad, Bad night, I finally went out in Chile to the Arica contest after party at Soho (big night club down by the beach)
600mls of Pisco later (a local alcoholic drink like vodka) Chris Garden and I are at the worst strip club known to man watching chubby trolls rub themselves on bits of furniture. I spent the whole time with a look of fear on my face. After tipping 100 pesos (20cents) we got the hell out of there.
After party rocked, though I could no longer feel’s my face or limbs. Gardy dominated the local ladies on the dance floor and I somehow staggered home and began drunk emailing mates, good times, though I will never drink again...............whatever!

Enough babbling, I live in Dunedin at the bottom of the east coast of the south island. We get constant south swells which wrap in from the west coast and arrive well lined up and clean. I grew up bodyboarding in a small coastal town called Wanganui. We had a similar set up to Port Mac in Aussie with a point break wave in the river mouth. As a grom it was a good place to learn with lots of punchy wedges, but now it’s just a dead town with weak surf due to sand loss.

I bailed to Dunedin in 2007. It has Cold, cold water, 4/3 steamer September-June and you don’t even want to surf June-August (unless you are Hayden Parsons) as it pretty much snows on the beach.
I live close to the main town beach, St Kilda and have five waves (mainly beach breaks) all within 10-30minutes drive which work in all conditions.
Dunedin in a kind of small peninsula so when one side goes onshore the other is offshore, and while the other is onshore it builds up the swell on that side, until it swings offshore there, excellent. It’s a full Uni town with heaps of fun to be had without the overcrowding of bigger cities.
A 1.5 to 2.5 hour drive north or south brings epic reef breaks and world class setups.
The rest of New Zealand offers great waves, but epic days are few and far between and most breaks need a lot of factors to happen to pump.

The New Zealand booger scene is pretty spread out and probably no bigger than Sydney’s total booger population. The website isolated.co.nz gives it a bit of cohesiveness and we have a five event National tour which has run for a good 15+ years now.




Doc: There’s a YouTube clip previewing the “Isolated” DVD by Hayden Parsons and M44 productions. This includes footage following Ryan Hardy and Co. through an epic trip to NZ, which was featured in Rippy #159. What timing in the clip are you in for this one so the crew can get a quick look at you? And also, if you can remember, what sections on the DVD are you in case some of the crew have it lying around?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uzAVPSc2T78


BM: Yeah, I have a mixed section with Hayden Parsons and Levi Turner about 10-15minutes into the video. There’s a big invert in the introduction from one of my favourite breaks as well about 1.5 hours from home.


Doc: What other vids show you’re riding?

BM: Haha, actually stuff all. I stopped for a good five years between 2001 and 2006 and took up competitive cycling and running of all things to do. I got a bit over it and missed the freedom of riding my boog so I started up again. Really only got back into it again 2 years or so ago.


Doc: You were rated top six in open men’s under 18’s in New Zealand’s National Rankings for 2000 – how long you been on the scene and competing for?

BM: I started bodyboarding in 1995. Was a complete kook for a good year, then got into my first contest in 1996 and won against a lot of high profile NZ riders at the time. I did pretty well the years between 1997 and 2000 winning a lot of open men’s NZ tour events and placing high at Nationals. I went to Hawaii in 1998 for the Pipe comp but got knocked in the trials at turtle bay in 2ft crap. In 1999 I did the Sintra Pro event getting through a few rounds and repeating that at the 2000 Pipe Comp getting through a few rounds. In 2001 I won the Open Nationals titles then stopped riding my bodyboard, worked heaps and just did other things.



Doc: You competed at Arica this year, killah wave and one of my personal faves on the planet. You came 1st in heat 5 of Round 1. Then came the clincher in round 2 heat 5 where with 1 minute to go you need 4.6 to get into second, after being knocked out of first by a local getting a sweet keg only minutes before. It winds out that a wave comes through and you pull a loop roll in a weak section Huey gives you for a 4.2, third by .04. you musta been gutted man. Comp surfing is such a head trip – how did you find the head games in Arica?

BM: For sure, I was pretty devo after it; I told Gardy who was shooting to put me on suicide watch!!! But you get over it..........eventually. A lot of great boogers got knocked due to tricky conditions (Hardy, Player etc) and you just have to accept that with the good comes the bad. I used to be pretty hard on myself as a grom, but since getting back into it I’m a bit more relaxed with it all. I bodyboard first because I love it and love progressing and pushing myself. Last year I won the NZ nationals and the overall tour and even tried the Pipeline contest in 2008 (but I have a terrible heat and got knocked out straight away!!)
Deep down I was stoked to get to Arica this year after fracturing my back in January this year in Rarotonga and injuring my hip really badly at Nuggen in June which forced me out of the water for 6weeks. 1st surf in 6 weeks was 6ft Gringo!!!
I was gutted that I never really got to open up during the comp in some better waves, and you always think what you would have done in your heat after it’s all over. But you can’t change the past, only move on to try again. The South American boys are always hard as they hassle you pretty hard, but you just have to keep your head and stay relaxed as it only takes two great waves to win a heat.
Stewart was a full inspiration at Arica, 46 going on 47 against guys half his age. Man that’s just so much motivation to keep going and progressing as long as you can!



Doc: the comp surfing is pretty ordered, but the free-surfing there, with everyone amped beforehand can get ‘hectic’ to say the least. Any stories you would care to share to give a picture of the intense atmosphere of the place?


BM: I was in Arica a good 3 weeks before the comp just surfing every day. It was epic, paddle out at 7am and no one out till10am!!! I came here in 2007 and stayed for a good 5 weeks so I have gotten pretty comfortable with the wave. It reminds me a lot of the Cook Islands (which most Nzer’s visit each year as it’s only a 3 hour flight)
Once guys started turning up it got pretty hectic in the water, a lot of drop in’s and hassling, but it’s just part of it all and you have to accept it.
I had a lot of great days, 4-10ft, though 10ft is just too big for gringo!! A lot of closeouts and the barrel is not a perfectly open pit. You always hit the reef here and boosting off closeouts is always hard to land. A Hawaiian guy staying with us, Timmy Hamilton get pumped on a 6ft peak trying to backdoor it and end up opening his heal to the bone and getting eight stitches.



Doc: what mix of Prone/DK/Stand-up Boogie are you riding?

BM: I mainly prone, though I am fully amped to get into a bit of DK later this year and would probably DK over stand up surf.



Doc: What boards are you running in your current quiver and what are your current faves?

BM: I am sponsored by Mark Peterson who imports NMD in New Zealand and have been riding a 41.5 Ben Player with a crescent tail and channels in a Dow core with stringer and 60/40 rails. I have a Winny 41.5 in PP and a concave bottom which is epic when the waves are weaker. Living in Dunedin you hardly surf weak or onshore waves so you’re always riding boards which go well in heavy and hollow surf.



Doc: What dimensions and core compositions are you finding hot for your riding at the moment?

BM: Dow core is good in NZ as the water is cold, but concave bottoms are defiantly a great thing. I like heavier boards as they seem to plough through chop better and keep their momentum through flat sections of a wave. Bat tails have their place in weak surf, but I find standard crescents great for all round carving and control. I like relatively narrow boards with narrow noses and wide tails with reasonably far back wide point.

Doc: And how about accessories – leash, fins and wetsuits?[/i]

BM: I use Gyroll leashes and Churchill flippers though the importer for NMD and wear O’Neil wetsuits though surf shop R and R sport in New Zealand. O’Neil make great cold water suits.


Doc: D.O.B height and weight?

BM: May 1st, 1980, 176cm tall and weigh 72kg


Doc: Fave breaks – local and overseas?

BM: Favourite wave in New Zealand would be a toss-up between PK bay about 1.5 hours from home which is just an epic Mexico style wave, in COLD water!! Also a beach break, Allen’s which is 30min from home and serves up great barrels to wrapping oncoming bowls and always has plenty of grunt as it comes out of deep water. My favourite wave for working on technical surfing for sure.
Overseas I love Nuggen (who doesn’t!!) and Gringo and Socials in Rarotonga.




Doc: What would be the biggest wave you’ve taken on?

BM: Jeez, I would have to say in Pasquales in Mexico, 10-12ft A-frame top to bottom beach break. Best waves of my life so far..............though we are heading off to Tahiti next year so that will hopefully change.



Doc: And what’s the toughest wave you’ve hit up?

BM: Dinner plates in the Catlin’s is always hard to surf due to such a step in the takeoff, so I’m going with that. Full Hawaiian style heavy and requires full commitment to make when big. I love surfing it will Sam Wells, he owns that place!



Doc: Do you have a crew you hang with in the water?

BM: I surf a lot alone as I work for myself personal training and study at university in Dunedin when I can, but when we head out of town then a few of us will car pool. Normally Hayden Parsons when he’s not being a family man, Sam Wells when I head up north (he’s a full charger, though loves his hair a bit much) Crowd wise it’s always good here, turn up to a perfect wedge beach break with just the car load you rocked up with. Gardy is always keen if he’s about as well.



Doc: What’s the maddest road trip you’ve been on?

BM: One that springs to mind was when I was 18. I had taken a local booger with me to a wave 4 hours away. I took him to stay at my mates house (who has the creepiest sense of humour) I decided to go for a run as there was no surf the first day. While away my mate proceeded to creep the poor grom out by getting up , getting the lawn mower and etching Nazi Symbols into lawn, later he told the grom that to stay you had to deliver some heavy sexual favours all with a straight face. By the time I got home the grom was sheet white. Driving home early in the morn I fell asleep at the wheel, completed a full 360 degree spin in the middle of the road and continued driving completely unharmed!!

I have had the odd crazy run in with the mongrel mob when in the North Island after throwing a 1.5 litre fizzy drink bottle at a guy on a motorcycle for a joke. He chased us for a good 10k before forcing us off the road and going mental. I played dumb, like I did it by accident and luckily my mate was Maori which probably saved my ass!!

The isolated challenge events I went to in 2006 and 2007 are always epic for great surf and fun times!!



Doc: Best boat trip?

BM: Never done a boat trip!!!! So need to do a boat trip!!! Will have to enrol in another drug trail back home to get that one to happen!!



Doc: Before I ask about your favourite boog photogs, a mate of yours is Chris Garden, who Riptide website FrontPage readers may recognise from the slideshows of this year’s Arica comp entirely shot by Chris. He’s a pretty respected photog around the place ( go see http://www.chrisgarden.com/ ) – and writes up a hell of an event report too, I must say, better than a lot of the so-called professionals who are meant to be giving the riders good representation.

The Arica Exclusive Galleries are at:
http://www.riptidemag.com.au/exclusive-gallery

Can you give us a rundown on Gardo as a photog and as a bloke in general (always like to get the real/human side).


BM: Yeah Gardy is super cool. Takes great photos of anything and loves bodyboarding for all the right reasons. He has a great reputation overseas, and it’s always funny back home as he is just Gardy to all of us and we all write him off (though we all secretly love him!!) Possibly the worlds cheapest man, though after I did 8 month trip through the Pacific, Mexico (living in a tent on the beach for 8 weeks!!!), Chile and early season Hawaii (camping in the hills) on $4,000 I think I have now taken the crown!



Doc: Who are some of your fave photogs?


BM: Phil Gallagher’s DLUX was incredible.

Two American guy’s Chris Allen (Interviewed Chris Allen in April this year here:
viewtopic.php?f=18&t=2291 ) and Brian Pezman take great images as well.

Chris Garden http://www.chrisgarden.com/ (NZ) as I have seen so much of his work.
Ryan Isherwood (Ryan's webby is in the pipeline, meantime he says to say he is a cool fella... haha) (NZ)
Sam Brookes http://www.pbase.com/samuelbrooks (NZ)
Kane McMillan http://www.pbase.com/kanemc/bodyboarders (NZ)



Doc: Board history – any chance you can remember and name the boards you have had under you over time? Fave ride ever of all of them?

BM: I was sponsored by Wave Rebel by an NZ importer Dale Sattler as a grom, used to ride GT boards miles to big for me. But I remember this Brian Wise 41 inch bat tail I had which was just incredible. My first board was a Manta Eppo Air which will always hold a place in my heart as it was the board I did my first aerials on. We all had a Mike Stewart 7-7. Always to be remembered as it was a 7-7 ridden by Mike Stewart, black deck and orange bottom.



Doc: Scariest moment on the boog?

BM: Hmmmmmmmmmmmm. I wiped out on a decent one in Hawaii in 1999 on a 6ft set, landed arse first in the trough and smacked my lower back on the reef. Couldn’t move my legs for a good 30secs and thought I was going to be a cripple. I have had so many back injuries its crazy!!
In 2007 I got hammered head first into the reef at dinner plates, opened my scalp and ended up with full whiplash in my neck and golf ball size bumps on the back on my head for a few weeks!



Doc: How would describe the boog scene in Australia at the moment and where do you see it heading?

BM: Aussie bodyboarding is such a driving force in world bodyboarding. So much talent, guys pushing themselves and the sport higher and higher. The Tension series really elevated the level overall in big surf as well. Being from NZ we are definitely influenced by aussie riders.
I really just see the more technical surfing being done in the bigger waves. You know, surfing an 8ft wave like its 3-4ft. As far as new move, invert to air revs/back flips as a go for sure, apart from that I am not sure what the future holds for new moves.




Doc: What do you reckon BB needs most at the moment?

BM: Diversity. Everywhere I travel in the world I see so much talent. That talent needs to be exposed, nurtured and motivated.
Bodyboarding companies run by bodyboarders will always help the sport. A great world tour with epic surf and good cash (which we really do have now) and coverage on mainstream TV of contests and free surfing. Everyone I meet who doesn’t know about bodyboarding and watches a video is always so impressed by the sport.




Doc: What do you love most about the BB culture?

BM: I love the freedom. Freedom to surf where I want, when I want, how I want. To just take off on a wave and have the ability and opportunity to make it something special. The giving and great boogs I know, a couch to sleep in, in every town and every country.


Doc: Who would you like to give a shout-out to?

BM: Big shout out to Alex Dade (love you man), Elisha Turen (you’re a super model babe!), Kevin McAlister (you are the glue that holds NZ competitive bodyboarding together), Gardy (you take nice photos of me!) Adam Hart (shave off your lamb chops; you might just get a girlfriend!) Dale Sattler (thanks for believing in me from the beginning and taking a chance and sponsoring me in the beginning)

Doc: And finally who are your sponsors?

BM: haha, I already plugged them, but again they are R and R sport, NMD, Churchill and Gyroll leashes.


Thanks so much for your time Benny

No problems mate, I am now looking forward to 3 months in a back brace to let my fractured back finally heal. But I will be back in full force in 2010!!


Da Pics (waiting to sort photog on a few, so putting TBA for the mo). Have a few waiting permission from the photog, so more to come in the near future – sick ones too – yew!!

1. Ben Mackinnon Photog: Chris Garden
Caption: Heat one, round #1 win......sweet!!
Image

2. Ben Mackinnon Photog: Chris Garden
Caption: On Suicide watch after losing heat!
Image


3. Ben Mackinnon El Gringo Photog: cool brazillian guy at back packers
Caption: Air reverse part one
Image



4. Ben Mackinnon El Gringo Photog: cool brazillian guy at back packers
Caption: Air reverse part two
Image


5. Empty by Chris Garden
Caption: NZ
Image


6. Ben Mackinnon El Gringo Photog: cool brazillian guy at back packers
Caption: ARS
Image


7. Empty by Chris Garden
Caption: NZ reef break
Image


8. Photog: Who knows, on the piss!!
Caption: When in doubt paint your body.
L to R Alex Dade, Hayden Parsons, Ben Mackinnon Dunedin crew
Image


9. Ben Mackinnon El Gringo Photog: cool brazillian guy at back packers
Caption: Driving through a Gringo slab
Image


10. Ben Mackinnon Photog: Chris Garden
Caption: Arica 09
Image


11. Ben Mackinnon El Gringo Photog: cool brazillian guy at back packers
Caption: Driving through a Gringo slab part two
Image


12. Ben Mackinnon Photog: Chris Garden
Caption: Arica 09
Image


13. Photog: Chris Garden
Isolated Challenge 2008 Bmax in red hoodie
Image


14. Photog: Tim Blackwood
Ben Mackinnon old skool DBah 99
Image


15. Ben Mackinnon old skool DBah
Photog: Tim Blackwood
Image


16. Ben Mackinnon by Phil Gallagher
Caption: Nuggen 09
Image


17. Ben Mackinnon Photog: Edward Saltau
Caption: NZ beach break
Image


18. Ben Mackinnon Photog: Chris Garden
Pk Bay by Chris Garden
Image


19. Ben Mackinnon Photog: Dale Sattler
Old skool Raglan '98
Shot courtesy of NZ Lidders: " The vision of NZ Lidders is to promote and publicize New Zealand bodyboarding to New Zealand and the rest of the world."
http://www.geocities.com/nz_lidders/LIDHOME1.html
Image


20. Ben Mackinnon Nuggen by Chris Allen
Caption: Nuggen 09
Image


21.Photog: Chris Garden
Caption: St Kilda NZ
Image
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Re: Benny Mackinnon New Zealand

Postby captain6230 » Mon Aug 10, 2009 9:33 pm

for a bloke that should be in a back brace he is boosting with the best of them :shock:
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Re: Benny "BMax" Mackinnon New Zealand

Postby chrisjunker » Tue Aug 11, 2009 1:00 am

What a character!
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Re: Benny "BMax" Mackinnon New Zealand

Postby doclach » Tue Aug 11, 2009 1:42 pm

yeah lads, he is pretty hard-core and bloody funny, thanks for your comments.

There were some pics submitted of Chris Garden's which i had to write and get his permission to use (sometimes we don't know if pics might be used elsewhere, so it's courteous to check).

Gardy has written back and given us full permission to use these - plus some more off his website when I get time to get there. Attitudes like this help riders - and boog in general - so much. There are some other photogs who have helped with Bmax's shots, so I'll chase up their websites and edit them in when i find out.
anyways, enough words, here are da pics :twisted:

A: Rider: Ben Mackinnon Photog: Chris Garden
Air Reverse El Gringo
Image

B: Rider: Ben Mackinnon Photog: Chris Garden
ARS El Gringo
Image

C: Rider: Ben Mackinnon Photog: Chris Garden
El Gringo Speed Blur
Image

D: Rider: Ben Mackinnon Photog: Chris Garden
Invert close-out El Gringo
Image

E: Rider: Ben Mackinnon Photog: Chris Garden
Reverse 3 El Gringo
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Re: Benny "BMax" Mackinnon New Zealand

Postby JONNO313 » Fri Sep 04, 2009 6:43 pm

Sweet interview DOC, thanks for point it out bro.
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Re: Benny "BMax" Mackinnon New Zealand

Postby doclach » Tue Feb 16, 2010 5:09 pm

BMax is no wilting flower it is universally agreed. Like a lot of the Kiwi lads he knows how to write a good yarn. A bloke who knows how to go hard and live harder - sit back, relax and have a laugh with one of kiwi mates (Heat 27, round 4) and see some of the real side of Pipe.

Day 1: 12th Feb 2010

After 9 hours, 3 movies, 10 naps, 2 shit meals which I had no choice in and a hell of a lot of turbulence later I arrived in Hawaii. Hawaii, the land of Magnum P.I., Lost and plenty of fake boobies, boobies always attached to heavy Hawaiian dudes or rich business men, so dont get your hopes up.
After an hour in US customs doing their usual through, verging on paranoid job of assessing you I walked out into the 26 degree air, met my ride to the north shore and an hour later bunked down in a small dorm with 6 others surfers and no Bodyboarders. Another NZ booger, Quentin was at the same place, so I met up with him for a yarn then headed to bed.

Day 2: 13th Feb 2010

Being a sleepaholic, I slept in till 9.30am. I picked up my awesome pink girls bike which I had booked for 2 weeks (they never felt the need to mention its color and sex when I booked it on the net) and headed to Foodland to begin on my budget food adventure. An adventure which is hard to live at the infamous Foodland. But it was dream I aimed to live, aspired to live. $50 US later I would be living off protein bars, rice, beans, soymilk, coffee and oranges. Didnt your mother ever tell you a balanced diet was found in a vitamin pill and eating whatever was cheap?

About 11am I head to Pipe. The goss is its 6-8ft and pumping after talking to Quinn in the morning. Making the ride along the north shore Kam Hwy brings back memories of being an 18 year old grommet with dreams to go big and no clue as to what was needed to go big. But you get older and you get wiser. I rock up to 6-8ft pumping pipe with 70 guys out, pretty standard issue, even a bit on the uncrowned side!!

A one hour wait and I still have no wave, then it comes, and for once Im actually in the best position. I paddle in strong to the 6 ft peak, yelling yo!with a deep voice so I sound like some heavy dude. A bullshit drop with a scoop later and Im soul arching through a perfect pipe pit with two barrel sections. I fight for another hour. I get nothing. I go in. I sit on the beach and take in all that is that stretch of beach known as beach park. A tiny 1km stretch that houses Log cabins, Off the wall. Backdoor, Pipeline, Gums and Sunset beach. Im done with paradise for the day, I tan, I see that bald dude from lost going for a run, and I creep pretty girls from the shadows. My day is complete.

Day 3: 14th Feb

Power dawn session!!! I will be the 1st man to surf pipe this morning!! In the darkness I ride, practicing breath holds and nearly passing out. Stretching on the beach and its still dark and I cant see anyone else. A guy turns up, no way he will paddle out, you cant even see!!! He does, so now I have to. I paddle out, its defiantly big, and you can feel it. I luck into the lineup at 6.35am to find out Quinn has beaten me to it!!! But in that 1st 15 minutes we get as many waves as you can hope or sometimes dream to get in a 2 hour surf. I get a solid 6ft keg. I massive roll off an 8ft bowl. A nice, fast air reverse out of the bowl followed by a back flip on the inside. And another big keg. Quinn combos with sick barrel to spins and flowing off the lip forwards. All the while another 10 guys enter the line up every 15mins. 1 hour later Im over it. A ride home, a poor mans breakfast and a massive 2 hour power nap later and Im on it again for the midday, perfect camera lighting, everyman and his dog, C.I.R.C.U.S.

Pipes all about sitting in funny places, a bit deep, a bit far in, a bit wide, a bit far out and WAITING. Be prepared to wait. A one hour wait for a bomb is standard is not the whos who of world Surfing and Bodyboarding. This session is all about one thing. Snake, snake hard, snake Michael Novy styles and above all DONT SNAKE THE WRONG PEOPLE!! I wait. I snake. I wait. I snake. I get a bullshit keg to fast air reverse coming out into the close out, I dont land it, I cry. I fight for another hour. I go in.

Registration for the Pipeline contest is today, so I cruise up to that, part with my $240 US and pray for a good seeding. The rest of the day is spent tanning, creeping and talking shit as the all you can eat Backpackers burrito night. Didnt your mother ever tell you that you can gain all the nutrients you have been lacking with an all out Backpackers BBQ binge?

Day 4: 15th Feb

Another dawn patrol awaits with a 5.30am wake up, some meditation and some yoga (Im a weird, weird person) and a 6.30am paddle out. Pipes small today, 3-4ft, but fun. Fun = crowed as hell. Again I use my powers of snaking to get a good barrel and 2 big inverts of the bowl. Considering there are 60 guys out on a 2way peak, I think I have done well!! I get out, chill on the beach for an hour and feel sorry for those guys trying to get into the main event doing trials on the East side at Sandy beach. Now thats commitment for you. $240 US in a 2-3ft closeout beach break against South Americans. Quinn decides to not do the trials. I dont blame him.

The rest of the day is spent on the usual tanning, sleeping, pissing round on the net with thoughts of a sneaking hour and a half before dark at off the wall!!
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Re: Benny "BMax" Mackinnon New Zealand

Postby meaksy » Tue Feb 16, 2010 11:12 pm

Great read, thats the sort of stuff that should accompany images in the mags. Thourougly enjoyed.
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Re: Benny "BMax" Mackinnon New Zealand

Postby doclach » Wed Feb 17, 2010 2:26 pm

Day 5 of BMax's "Hawaii Chronicles":

Day 5: 16th Feb

A lay day for the contest with the 17th looking the same. Power dawn session makes me the 1st man out at Pipe today, that is after a sneaky poo out the front of a very flash house on beach park (but tell anyone, otherwise I will get a beat down!!) Its 3-4ft and a very fun wave at this size, a wave anyone can surf. And if anyone can surf it, then everyone generally does in Hawaii!!

15minutes of power later 30 guys are out. I manage to avoid a beating after sitting two guys who just paddled out snake me hard, so I snake them back and call one off the wave I go for. Sadly it's a local Bodyboarder and he flips his skids.Here we go,awesome, its 7.15am and people are already tripping at you that you call them off a wave they are gonna burn you on.
But it's okay, I kind of feel sorry for them as they are locals and as soon as there break pumps half the world come rushing in. Standard Hawaii.

Quinn is down the beach at Off the wall and spanks a HUGE invert. Can you say ripper? Or Michael Novy's stunt double. But maybe not quite as annoying in the water. I have this shit down to a fine art. Get out after one hour. Go back to bed for a few hours and hit it again after the morning changeover!!


The second session of the day brings pretty small Pipe and backdoor, but I manage to sneak a few, though one was a blatant drop in that I talk myself out of by saying "I thought you were going right bro!!" He he. I spend an hour on the beach taking the surfing in, watching beautiful women walk up and down the beach over and over again and play in the water like they are posing for "Sports illustrated 2010" and working on my tan, just so that Sam Peters will have a cry about it at the Dion Wells contest.

The wind pack in for the day, so I watch "the Cove" and end up a bit depressed, amped to be an activist, and thinking a hate humanity. Dolphin and whale killing is mad. So another day closes in Hawaii, and I am beginning to want to compete!!
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Re: Benny "BMax" Mackinnon New Zealand

Postby despes25 » Wed Feb 17, 2010 4:15 pm

very good read, i want more
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Re: Benny "BMax" Mackinnon New Zealand

Postby doclach » Thu Feb 18, 2010 10:11 am

despes25 wrote:very good read, i want more

Your wish is granted Despes:

Day 6: Feb 17th

I planned to the dawn patrol, I really did! But at 5.30am I woke to howling winds and a body unwilling to climb out of bed. So I just slept and slept until 9.30am, did some yoga on the beach in my undies must to the disgust of fat American tourists and rode down to Pipe. Its onshore 6-10ft with not a soul in sight, which is really strange, but cool thing as it's always so packed. I chill on the beach talking "comp strategy" and watching massive boosts ramps unload with clean up sets right behind them.

If you have never been to Pipe, it really doesn't kick in until over 6ft +. Everything happens FAST. The barrel throws over FAST. The scoop to bottom turns is always FAST. But take care to hug the hell out of the wall and dig your legs in like your life depends on it, otherwise you will freefall, miss the pit and look like a KOOK. I did that on the first day, but learnt my lesson quickly.

The day is a write off with no comp, no tan time and no incentive. So its videos, shit talk and sleeping. I guess life's not so bad!!

Though things look promising for a start of the contest tomorrow. Though what would I know, I'm not even a regular Hawaii trekker.
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Re: Benny "BMax" Mackinnon New Zealand

Postby doclach » Sun Feb 21, 2010 9:10 pm

Day 9: Feb 20th

The weekend "super powered paddle out in complete darkness and surf when you cant see" dawny session fails to deliver on the surf forecast.
its 3 ft, semi clean and fun. But not 4-5ft and howling offshore.
Gay

I get 30 mins in before 30 guys paddle out. I have realised that there will never be an uncrowded day in this place. Never!!

Quinn surfs Off the Wall and snags a few good ones with an air reverse and a good invert. Bastard!! I snag a few tight reverse off the lip out of the bowl and a few wee pits, but nothing worth continuing to blah, blah , blah about :(

Its home for breakfast, sleeping, tanning and pretending you are reading a book while creeping, during tanning.......:) Life is hard.

Planning to hit Off The Wall at 5.30pm for a quick Hour before dark.
It's saturday on the north shore and something will be going on somewhere, somehow on the north shore...........
I need to be there!!!
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Re: Benny "BMax" Mackinnon New Zealand

Postby doclach » Mon Feb 22, 2010 7:58 am

The Pressure is on For BMax, here is his latest installment before competing tomorrow - you can feel the intensity.....

Feb 21: Day 10 (nearly home time!!!!)

Surfed good but crowded Pipe late yesterday evening, with perfect winds and an increasing swell. Crowded, but that is never a suprise, and with only 2 good waves in an hour and a half, again it wasnt really any suprise!! I decide to stay out as lomg as I can before dark."just one more, a good one before I go in, just a bomb!!" it doesnt happen and I catch a crappy insider in as its now pitch black and a few 8ft one are beginning to roll in........

The alarm goes off at 5.45am. Im up, a quick stretch and a shot load of coffee and a bike to Pipe which wakes me up. I sit on the beach at 6.15am, complete darkness.I should go out now. You could probably paddle out about now. then i see him, a guy pulling into a black barrel. CRAZY!! Its way bigger today, 6-10ft!!And he would have paddled out in black!!

Its pumping, the best day by far since I have been her. Pipes lining up well, a few second reefers and heaps of 8ft one on the inside going super hollow. I turn around to see groups upon groups of guys heading out! I need a wave NOW!!!
I sneak a bomb pit, gaping pit, a hug the wall as hard as you can pit and come flying out with the spit into a full rotation ari reverse on the inside!!
I need more. I dont really get it. I get a short pit to a nice invert. But is soooooooooooo crowded!! Kianoa Mcgee paddles out, goes to the main peak then precedes to pull back on a 10ft bomb, full waves of the day!! NO ONE can beleive what they see!! Kianoa pulling back!!

After spending an hour trying to get a wave in I get a little invert bowl and get the hell out of there. The crowd is just too much!! Quinns on the beach, not keen to deal with the crowd. A lot of drop ins are going on, as we witness a stand up and a booger get axed by a lip after hassling each other. At 8-10ft its pretty crazy, people can get hurt. But people only seem to care for themselves. And it makes me a little sick.

I go home to chill out. Im Hawaiied out. Well and truly. Im just going to focus on surfing in the contest. Im over all the madness around surfing outside of it.

Im ready to rock at 8,40am tomorrow morn (6.40am NZ/ 4.40am aussie!!). I have a hard heat with Al Taylor. But i feel good. Im surfing well and feel confident up to 10ft Pipe.I have come all this way, I guess because i beleive I can do something. And because a few other people beleive i can too. I will try my hardest. Paddle my hardest and take off on and hit what I need to. I need luck. Please give me luck!! Luck to get good waves, im happy with my surfing, just give me the waves to let loose :)

Amen.


sickest write-ups Benny - Hope ya fly man :twisted:
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Re: Benny "BMax" Mackinnon New Zealand

Postby doclach » Wed Feb 24, 2010 5:04 am

And it just gets better, many thanks to Bmax for putting a lot of time and heart into these reports:

Feb 22nd: Day 11

I wake at 6.30. I do yoga on the beach and check the swell size. I eat porridge and drink bad hawaiin coffee. I play music that makes me feel good. I ride the Kam HWY at 7.30am to Pipe.

Today is comp day. And its a day ive been waiting a while for, I can tell you!!!
I rock up and its 3-4ft, no wind, pretty glassy, but a far cry from yesterdays epic big pit maddness!! But you get what you are given and everyone else is in the same boat. Its a level playing field.

I chill on the beach watching the sets (which are few and far between). The 1st heat hits the water of round four just before 8am Hawaiin time. I go through my standard ritual of watching the surf listening to amping music, stretching and warming up. I check in about 15mins before my heat, grab my rash shirt and go sit at the Pipe paddle out spot back up the beach. It finally feels real.Real to be here in Hawaii. Real that I managed here with the help of a good few people (you know who you are, Kevin,Alex,Danny,Greame, Lou and Tom) and my own hard earned/ hard loaned $. But this is why we do it. Because you have to have something to believe in. This life is about backing yourself and learning the lessons along the way. So here I am, I backed myself. Let the dice roll......

We paddle out, there is the odd good one, but a lot of lulls. A brief set comes through but im 3rd priority and cant really snake my way out of it. I wait for the next set. One comes, im late and im a bit far back. But I give it a go, becasue I promised myself I wouldnt hold back. Not here. I negotiate the steep drop and power through the first section. Im far back, really far back, but Im coming through. Drving through the last part the barrel compresses a bit and I slam straight down into the bottom. A possible 10 becomes a nothing.
I get it out of my head and paddle back out. Its slow and we sit for a while waiting for the next set. Im last in position.

I snavel a nice in an out barrel with a fast forward spin in the trough and a roll on the inside section. Okay, im on the board. But I need more, I need bigger. Two okay ones come through leaving me to pick up the smaller one after these two. It offers no barrel, but it does offer a bowl. I hit an ARS and go pretty HUGE for the size of the wave. All in the air and land followed by a fast reverse spin. Im breathing hard, but I push myslef out into the line up as fast as I can because I promised myself no to hold anything back here. Im missing the bigger sets and i know it. The ocean is slow today and I just need something with a bit of size to it. Im out surfing these guys, but my waves selection isnt good enough. In the dying minutes a snag aonther ARS bowl but hit it a bit early and dont go huge. Just a standard boost again followed by a fast forward.

2mins to go "here it comes" i tell myself
1mins to go "its coming, its coming, I can feel it"
It never comes, my wave, my last wave, that bigger barrel and an invert I dreamed of, the one I wanted to show the world..........

I get out, feeling dejected. Quinn comes up to me "man you owned that heat, no one was busting like that!" and I feel the bloom of hope. I tell him I havent got the size in my wave selection and I havent got the long barrels. Buts he's sure. But im not and the score confirms it.

Im sad. but at the same time I gave it all I had.I told myself that this was a long process, one that wouldnt happen over night. I need to go home, I need to compete in and support the NZ tour. To try to get into the NZ team for the Aussie nationals and push myself hard int he upcoming Dion Wells contest in less then two weeks. Hawaii is next year and Arica is far away if I work hard to find the support to get to it again. A year is a long time, or a very short time. it just depends how you look at it :)

"Great disappointments can generate great motivation." Motivation to push past where you were comfortable, motivation to never be satisfied with your level of riding. Motivation to be that person you want to be............

I love my sport and I love riding my bodyboard. First because it has given me some of the greatest experiences in my life, because it has taking me to far away places I would never have gone. The friends I have made in our mutual enjoyment of bodyboarding (cause face it, if we wanted to be cool we would just surf. But we dont want to be cool. We want to do something because we love it. Not because everyone else is doing it!)

And second is because to compete is the most human instinct you can follow. To push beyond, to lose and come back. To win and feel the adreniline course through your viens.............

Dont knock it until you try it. You may just get addicted.
Thanks for all of your support.
It meant a lot and it was never in vain.
Because what you do with defeat makes the man

Cheers
Ben
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Re: Benny "BMax" Mackinnon New Zealand

Postby LegendPix » Wed Feb 24, 2010 6:14 am

Geez! Thanks. U2 Doc...wanna cry...& fly at the same time! u got talent...lovely writing!
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Re: Benny "BMax" Mackinnon New Zealand

Postby harmony4eva » Wed Feb 24, 2010 7:01 am

Wow love this guys attitude. Positive and motivating...this guy is grounded. I actually watched his heat yesterday. The lone NZ. What ever your doing Ben its working for you. Keep it up and you will go far.
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