DUCT T4PE wrote:
LEARN TO HOLD YOUR BREATH... lung capacity is a big deal...
what is it that scares you about bigger surf??
if its drowning then learning to swim and lung capacity will make you more confident..
and as i forgot who it was, was talking about before with the duck diving i find if you dont think you are going to get ir right the first time baioff the board and dive without it
i dont really think lung capacity is that important unless the set waves are really close together and you're constantly diving/duckdiving. The thing i find scariest about going out in big surf is getting caught in the break zone and also getting out. i hate it when the wave breaks on your head or right in front of you, thats when the white wash is the most powerful. i dont mind bailing, cos you know your gonna come up eventually, the key is just waiting underwater.
i went for a surf this morning(5-6ft, open beach) and everything in the post happened, had heaps of trouble getting out, got stuck in the break zone and had to dive under wave after wave, and on my first wave i bailed inside the closeout and felt myself falling into the water, luckily i fell feet first, god that must've look funny from the beach
. i took a bail at tea-tree on a 6ft wave at the very topslid down the face of the wave aha.