What defines heavy to you?

[doclach]

hehe - yer - the b4 photo is cool though... ominous.. ANYTHING can happen in that sort of stuff

[JonoIsMad.com]

id be shitting myself in his position....

hmm ive always wanted to surf clops on like a 4-6ft day....i reckon it would be such a good experience

[doclach]

yer 4 to 6/8 foot is just a cruisey blast - such a clean brek there too - nice size for cruising on boog and ya aren;t too worried about hold downs.... good pick JIM

[JonoIsMad.com]

i reckon it would just be a bit too difficult for me when its bigger than that since i cant ride lefts aswell as rights...i just feel to retarded riding lefts these days....i cant really drop aswell..
but mind that i air dropped from the lip the other day into a nice little keg...f@king golddddd

[doclach]

i reckon it would just be a bit too difficult for me when its bigger than that since i cant ride lefts aswell as rights...i just feel to retarded riding lefts these days....i cant really drop aswell..
but mind that i air dropped from the lip the other day into a nice little keg...f@king golddddd

how come u can't ride L's as well as R's ? i have heard of a few people that cant - it doesnt really enter my head, so i'm always surprised to hear it - spesh when it is someone competent ike u JIM - for me I think I have always been such a wave Whore that I just want everything I can get - combine that with a lot of beach breaks that have gone one wy or the other and spose u have it - I think it is a shame to write off (pretty much) a whole direction of wave - not to mention u will need it for comping. How do ya reckon you can retify it - do ya wanna rectify it? happy to give a hand, as it would piss me off missing out on a great lip drop just cos it wa going the 'wrong' way for me..
hahah - yerrrrrrrrr - air drops are my faaaaaaaveeeee

[JonoIsMad.com]

i usually hand around the right hand breaks its always felt alot more natural to be able to take bigger later drops on my right...while on my left i tend to just try and get down the face into my turn quickly....like im not completely retarded on lefts....just dont have great positioning...as you can see from my latest left hand mini barrel i just look retarded

[Bombie]

Ahhhh, I was once too the same! I couldn't ride a righty if ya paid me, I couldn't wrap my head around it!

Now it is easy-peasy-japanezy! I don't even think twice about it.

Like ya said Doc, having a variety of Beach breaks ( or "no other option but to surf 'em" ) defs helps. In fact now, I tend to choose rights over lefts due to the fact I can haul my nose up and move my board easier.

It all comes in time eh.

[doclach]

i usually hand around the right hand breaks its always felt alot more natural to be able to take bigger later drops on my right...while on my left i tend to just try and get down the face into my turn quickly....like im not completely retarded on lefts....just dont have great positioning...as you can see from my latest left hand mini barrel i just look retarded

like B-man says it comes with time - I didn;t notice ot that much - probably more your own self-awareness JIM - for teh drops u r tlking about it is usually associated with a sense of strength, as well as positioning... dude, seriously, i would really try and nail them left s - tackle a bunch of lip drops on purpose... like they say about 'another' subject.. I'll just change the word... the wave u miss out on is the one u never get ... look at it like learning DK - ya will kook some,, but all for a higher prupose.. man it will double your booger joy

[JonoIsMad.com]

haha as i said im not completely retarded i can go decent sized waves left so about lets say up to 7ft....but im just saying id prefer not to take a bigger wave like clops left...because it just would seem abit unatural doing a big air drop onto my more uncomfortable side....just the goldy produces more quality rights than lefts so i just practise riding rights alot more often... and usually at straddy ill only go the rights because i can boost and pull better shit off going right

[Bombie]

i can go decent sized waves left so about lets say up to 7ft....

Even I wouldn't be too keen on that size at times. Are you sure that your stick frame body can handle that Jimbo?

[JonoIsMad.com]

bahahahah done it at d bah a few times when we had that awesome swell before the quicksilver pro at snapper....it was pretty intense hey....but i handled it...

and mate the stick body is freaking awesome for boogin....at straddy i boost from the bowls with max air....and at froggies im always the one doing an air reverse over someones head bahahaha

[Bombie]

Sounds sweet, Show us some pics Homz!

[JonoIsMad.com]

im really keen to get some pics in the decent sized liquid....

it seems im having abit of a shitty curse lately with jonno and the shooting

its either a slack day....im riding like shit or someone isnt watching hahaha

but next time froggies seems alright im keen to drag his ass down to get some shots...and this time ill have my mob of bitches to push each other harder

[doclach]

Yer so yesterday was one of those days where i was thinking a lot - a settled day with small swell - i went to a few spots, cos i like to check out some spots when they are settled - gives such a different view to when they are pumping. Anyways what ws on my mind was exactly the question posed in this thread - because of a photo i saw through the week, it was about the winter swells and such, but it showed a fella - youngish bloke - huddled on a rock and completely beaten - beaten by the ocean harshly. i know the break and the thing is the EXIT point. crap choice of exit point options can make a break that is already harsh even harsher - sometimes i have been on waves and already thinking about how the f#ck to get out of the break zone at the end.
I was gonna post the pic, but i don;t know the rider and it wasnt one of his best moments - no blod, worse - just huddled on a rock just above the foam in a beaten ball - having met his reckoning from the sea - it was a very emotionally impactful moment. a few of us have been there - it is no fun place - beatings generally are fun, as i see it - but when you are worn down and been sucked in and out, rolled, beaten again, smashed etc - and all just to get out of the water...not knowing if you actully will... comes a point.. so.. Exit Point... haha or as the movie title goes "Exit Wounds" are an aspect we sometimes forget in defining heavy..

[captain6230]

i understand what ur saying. a hairy exit point or even a hairy entry point to a break can make it a whole lot more intimidating. i was surfing a reef in north WA a couple of months ago that has no exit point. u simply have to cop a set on the head and get washed over the reef to shore, that wave was in no way heavy or dangerous but the exit point stops a lot of people surfing it.