Going out in bigger surf

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Re: Going out in bigger surf

Postby caspian » Sat Mar 05, 2011 2:26 pm

beaverloop wrote:blah blah blah


here's better advice:

Don't be a fag, and paddle out

Much easier!
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Re: Going out in bigger surf

Postby sundaytripz » Sat Mar 05, 2011 2:39 pm

lol ^
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Re: Going out in bigger surf

Postby ScottyT » Mon Mar 07, 2011 11:03 pm

caspian wrote:
beaverloop wrote:blah blah blah


here's better advice:

Don't be a fag, and paddle out

Much easier!

Definately top advice If you can duck dive well.
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Re: Going out in bigger surf

Postby kc_bodyboard » Mon Mar 07, 2011 11:07 pm

75% of the time its not im scared of the size of the wave, ill love riding the wave, but its the paddle back out im worried about,
taking numerous large sets on the head is my worst fear.
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Re: Going out in bigger surf

Postby ScottyT » Mon Mar 07, 2011 11:23 pm

x2^ Worst feeling when you take a set and can't feel the bottom when you try and kick up from it
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Re: Going out in bigger surf

Postby kc_bodyboard » Mon Mar 07, 2011 11:27 pm

The other day on a 3ft wave trying to get barrelled, and it pinches and lip lands on my head and the nose of my board, instantly flips me a couple of times, so disorientating.
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Re: Going out in bigger surf

Postby savage flame » Tue Mar 08, 2011 1:10 pm

kc_bodyboard wrote:75% of the time its not im scared of the size of the wave, ill love riding the wave, but its the paddle back out im worried about,
taking numerous large sets on the head is my worst fear.


Same here, there is no worse feeling than being stuck in the impact zone when a endless set comes rolling through.
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Re: Going out in bigger surf

Postby kc_bodyboard » Tue Mar 08, 2011 4:28 pm

yeah happened in nsw when i was down, went out at this place that didnt look as big as it was.
got out there and it was solid 4ft and even bigger washthroughs, got out the back and first set that came cleaned us up, we duckdived about 5 washthroughs,
paddled back out, and got cleaned up again by two sets, about 10 waves, by the time the set was over we were dead in the impact zone,
got the beach and collapsed aha
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Re: Going out in bigger surf

Postby captain_awesome » Tue Mar 08, 2011 4:28 pm

yeah, I'm the same, nothing worse than getting rag dolled 3 -4 times straight
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Re: Going out in bigger surf

Postby doclach » Tue Mar 08, 2011 5:08 pm

savage flame wrote:
kc_bodyboard wrote:75% of the time its not im scared of the size of the wave, ill love riding the wave, but its the paddle back out im worried about,
taking numerous large sets on the head is my worst fear.


Same here, there is no worse feeling than being stuck in the impact zone when a endless set comes rolling through.


Everyone hates sets on the head, they just suck, haha :twisted: :twisted:

one of my fave wipeout stories in big stuff
(from Nick Ormerod's interview)
viewtopic.php?f=17&t=3122&p=58693&hilit=nick+ormerod#p58693

Doc: Scariest moment on the boog?

NO: Scariest was maybe my first year in Hawaii when I was 17 and got caught inside at solid pipe. I think it was just the whole name of pipe that freaked me out. I felt like crying. Most recent and maybe sketchier was at chopes, freefell a bit, fins came off and dragged behind me like parachutes, got too deep, blasted, wetty came off and wrapped around my legs, leash wrapped around me until it pulled tight enough to snap. Got held under for ages to the end closeout bit on almost dry reef where I came up then got held there and rolled for a few waves, naked and with my fins dangling off like anchors, then got flushed into the lagoon with my tail between my legs wondering what the f@k just happened while I swam around looking for my board.
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Re: Going out in bigger surf

Postby captain_awesome » Tue Mar 08, 2011 5:43 pm

:shock: :shock: hectic as
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Re: Going out in bigger surf

Postby savage flame » Tue Mar 08, 2011 8:50 pm

Oh man, Nick's chopes wipeout made me cringe.
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Re: Going out in bigger surf

Postby Boogs » Tue Mar 08, 2011 9:17 pm

^^^That is one hectic story...
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Re: Going out in bigger surf

Postby adam.s » Sun Apr 03, 2011 10:20 pm

Getting rolled is character building and you will be better off for it. Unless your surfing a crazy wave, you won't drown. You wont even get a two wave which is when it starts to get bad.

When surfing Mitchell's wedge earlier this year on a big day, a really solid 6ft, I copped the first wave of a set on the head and got rolled so hard into the bottom for a long time. My leash was ripped off too. It was at least 10-12 seconds, maybe more because when I surfaced I was halfway through getting sucked over the falls on the next wave. I hardly had time to get another breath before copping another whooping. I came up, right before another one landed on my head and rolled me. I was lucky though, because I got sucked out the back and it was the end of the set. Managed to swim in to the beach, and as soon as I could stand another set broke so I timed that well too.
You can ask Despes about this too, because he was laughing at me when this set came through.

But I paddled back out and got waves, which is what you have to do. You just gotta not puss out. Just think about the shit you will get from your mates if you don't. And if your mates don't write you off and push you into bigger waves, they are shit mates. Try surfing with older dudes too, that helps.
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Re: Going out in bigger surf

Postby despes25 » Sun Apr 03, 2011 10:55 pm

have to admit it was pretty funny
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